{from my kitchen} goat cheese ice cream with roasted red cherries

It is no secret that I love ice cream. As soon as I saw the recipe for goat cheese ice cream with roasted red cherries in my epicurious e-newsletter I knew what I would be doing over the weekend. The recipe comes from Jeni Britton Bauer from the much loved Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream in Ohio. Splendid doesn’t even really begin to describe how awesome this ice cream is though. I can see why she has such a following. Even without the use of a traditional custard base the ice cream was really creamy and the goat cheese lent a bit of tang which was the perfect counterpoint to the sweet, roasted cherries. It’s an unusual but magnificent combination. I’m going to have to click on over to Amazon to get my hands on her new book to see what other cool combinations Jeni has up her sleeve. My summer must be filled with more ice cream!

Frequenting the farmers' market

My trips so far to the farmers’ market this year have been highly successful. I’ve left with farm fresh eggs, kale, sugar snap peas, cabbage, cherries, beets, and summer squash. But, there is one product I am obsessed with: arugula. This is without a doubt the best arugula I’ve ever had. The peppery bite is fantastic and the taste is so very fresh. The most I’ve done to it is squeeze a bit of lemon juice and a drip or two of olive oil over it and that’s when I’m not stuffing whole leaves into my mouth as I prepare the rest of the meal. I’ve worked to ration it out so that I can have at a tiny pile each day before my next trip. It doesn’t work. Within a day or two it is gone and I’m hoping Wednesday arrives quickly so I can get my next fix.

Let's talk meat

Behind the Meat Counter is a course at the Culinary Institute of America that I had been eyeing for a year or two. Each time I was about to register I would talk myself out of it: too expensive, too far away, not the right time. Blah, blah, blah. I’ve decided that this is the year I stop thinking and re-thinking all the big things I want to see and do and just DO THEM.

So it was that on a hot June Saturday morning I found myself on the campus of the CIA. The CIA is in a breathtaking location. These are some lucky students who get to look down on the Hudson River and its surrounding lush valley every day. I, however, spent most of the day in the basement in a chilled classroom and it was awesome!

Chef Schneller was a fantastic teacher. Humorous and helpful he made butchering large primal cuts look like a piece of cake. (Which I guess it would be if you had grown up at the side of your butcher father and continued in the profession yourself.) For demonstration he would break down large cuts of beef, talking us through the steps, and describing each of the smaller cuts as he went. Then we got to work with our own set of knives.

First up was learning to French a rack of lamb. With just a few simple cuts and a piece of butcher’s twine we had neatly cleaned our racks. Then the big butchering happened. We each broke down our own primal pork loin; they weighed in at over 40 pounds each. From that huge cut we learned how to remove the ribs, the tenderloin, the shoulder steaks, and the loin. By the time I finished mine I had amassed 4 steaks, a rack of ribs, a tenderloin, two pork roasts, 9 thick center cut shops, and scrap for grinding. And we weren’t done yet. The final butchering was breaking down a chicken. I learned the easy way to take out the backbone and how to leave a piece of the wing attached to the breast for a “fancy" presentation. Phew!

And all that meat came home with me! Samples of the beef Chef Schneller broke down, our lamb, our pork, and our chicken along with ground beef, pork, and lamb they made from our scraps found their way into my cooler. It was a very heavy cooler and my freezer is packed with more meat than I typically buy in six months. I’ve been having a bit here and there and it is crazy how proud I am to be eating meat that I butchered up myself. Very proud indeed.

{eating out} coppa enoteca, boston

Last summer was the first time I gave Coppa Enoteca a try. It was average, neither wowing me or offending my taste buds. At the time I didn’t know if I would go back. But I decided it deserved another try. I’m glad I did.

Everything I ordered was fantastic. With aperol spritzer in hand, it all started with the bread and its little bowl of olive oil for dipping. It may seem strange to fall in love with olive oil but I did. It was grassy with a bit of spice and I happily took more bread when they offered. There was no way I wanted to a leave a bit of that oil behind.

As a sort of appetizer I chose one of their specials, seared scallops atop a bean ragout. I had to work really hard at not inhaling the entire dish. So, yes, it was very, very good.

For a main course I chose the house made orecchiette with lamb, favas, mint, and pecorino. Again, I needed to prove I was something of a lady and not slurp down the entire bowl. I wish I had had the foresight to order the full size and take some home. But either way I have a feeling there wouldn’t have been any to take home with me.

I had intended to skip dessert. I was full of bread, olive oil, scallops, and fresh pasta. But then the server said house made pistachio gelato and I was a goner. Some pistachio gelatos barely taste of pistachios but this one was a winner. I would have happily taken home a pint, er, gallon.

The moral of this little food story? Give the average places a second try. They might just become your “neighborhood” joint as I hope Coppa will become mine.

{from my kitchen} baked french toast with orange and vanilla

There are dishes I make that I enjoy while they last. Then there are dishes I make and I obsessively think about long after they are gone. This baked French toast scented with orange and vanilla falls into the latter category. It was all perfection, rich and custardy with just a touch of sweetness. The orange and vanilla subtly conspired to remind me of a creamsicle, one of my favorite summertime treats from childhood. Dusted with some confectioner’s sugar and served with a side of maple-sage sausage it was a lovely Sunday brunch.

My little garden

Last year I was super inspired by Victoria’s awesome herb garden. I planted one of my own and corralled it in an old wooden tray on my kitchen table. I never got around to taking a picture of it though. With more than two minutes of sunshine each day it was time to plant my little garden again. This time I got a shot!

My garden grows basil, rosemary, mint, tarragon, thyme, and chives. Though it requires zero effort to keep them going I get an immense amount of satisfaction watching my garden grow. Not to mention how fantastic it is to cook with MY herbs.

{from my kitchen} lemon panna cotta with lemon marmalade

I rarely meet a dessert I don't like and this one is no exception. Despite being full of whole milk and heavy cream it manages to be light and reminiscent of summer, just the type of dessert I’m craving more and more as the weather improves. The lemon marmalade was good but far too bitter against the delicate panna cotta. I can, however, imagine smearing it on a scone along with some gently whipped cream. What this lemon panna cotta really wanted to be partnered with was fresh raspberries. With berry season looming I’m going to have to give that combination a try. You know, for research purposes.

{from my kitchen} baguette with anchovy butter and radishes

There is something to be said for keeping it simple and this little nibble illustrates why I should keep it simple more often. Slices of French bread slathered with a flavorful anchovy butter and topped with crispy radishes and a sprinkle of sea salt were awesome and paired perfectly with our negronis. Add in several hours of watching the Kentucky Derby coverage and it was a rather nice way to spend an on again/off again stormy Saturday afternoon. Our picks to win the race came up short, but oh well. We had delicious food and drink to ease the pain.

{from my kitchen} homemade pasta

Can there be anything wrong with homemade pasta? I didn’t think so and my latest kitchen experiment, thankfully, proves I’m right. What started out as a few eggs, some flour, salt, and a bit of water turned into the silkiest, most delicious pasta I’ve had in a long time. Maybe ever.

I tossed all that glorious pasta in a simple sauce of prosciutto, orange, and cream and found myself near heaven. As I melted into my first bite I couldn’t help but think of it as the ultra-sophisticated cousin of an alfredo, but even that sells it a bit short. I have to admit I am feeling pretty smug about the perfection of this meal.

Best of Charleston

My mom and I met up for a girls’ weekend in Charleston recently. I highly recommend you plan a trip to Charleston as well. The city, which is surrounded by water, is pedestrian friendly and very European in feeling. The spring weather is phenomenal, the locals friendly, and the food amazing. As to what to do, Charleston is filled with historical sites, old plantations and homes, and tours galore. We spent five days but could have easily spent five weeks.

As we sat at the airport waiting for our respective flights home we played a little game of “Name Your Favorite”. But we quickly had to sub-categorize and re-categorize in order to give due recognition to all the things we loved in Charleston. Without further ado, our best of Charleston list.

Best Hotel: Fulton Lane Inn
True, we only stayed at one inn during our stay, but this was top notch without costing top dollar. Continental breakfast is delivered to your door, the rooms are clean, and staff is wonderful.

Best Breakfast: Toast! Of Charleston
Go for the Eggs Meeting Street which is a fried green tomato topped with a crab cake topped with a poached egg. Served on the side were the obligatory grits and biscuit.

Best Lunch: Hominy Grill
A very popular restaurant but turnover is quick and service is great. Be sure to check the specials board which is where we found our soft shell crab po’boys. You must save room for the coconut cake.

Best Dinner Overall: Cru Cafe
Don’t judge the exterior of this restaurant or you will miss a real gem. Each and every course was spot on.

Best Standout Main Course: 39 rue de Jean’s lamb shank
This is course that my mom dreams of and will be talking about for years to come.

Best Restaurant Vibe: Husk
Each and every ingredient right down to the salt and olive oil is sourced in the south. The menu varies each day depending on what is available. They have also turned the old kitchen building into a fantastic bar. We suggest you start your evening there.

Best Historic House: The Nathaniel Russell House
You will not believe the amount of detail put into this house when it was built. The whole house is wonderful but the staircase and music room are amazing. The story of the man who built this house is also pretty great too and is fantastically told by the knowledgeable tour guides.

Best Tour: Ghosts and Graveyards
A rich and colorful storyteller guides you through graveyards at night. It will send shivers up and down your spine. By the end of the night you will believe in ghosts.

Best “Get your Bearings” Tour: Charleston Strolls
Start your trip with this tour. It is the perfect way to see the city on foot and figure out where everything is.

Best Gardens: Magnolia Plantation
Located 10 miles outside of Charleston this former rice plantation is rightly known for their gardens. Azaleas were plentiful and in full bloom. Also plentiful was wildlife including alligators, snakes and birds.

Best Way to See the Water: Sailing on Schooner Pride
If forced to pick only one highlight from Charleston it would be our 2 hour sail. Beginning on the Cooper River you head to wherever the winds take you. We ended up on the Atlantic before returning to dock. Sun, wind, and water, it was a perfect combination.

More Pictures of Charleston: Day 1, Day 2, Day 3, Day 4, and Day 5

A Birthday Recap

Birthdays are the best. It’s the one day of the year that belongs completely to you. You get to spend it however you want. And that’s what I did on my recent birthday, exactly what I wanted.

It started with a laid back morning on the couch with a stack of interior design books and a breakfast of bagels, cream cheese, and smoked salmon. Oh, and a mimosa, an absolute must on any birthday.

From there it was a Mediterranean inspired salad with roasted shrimp, peppers, cucumbers, olives and feta before I headed out for a massage and facial.

A quick stop at home after the spa gave just enough time to change into my party clothes for a night on the town. We started the evening with some browsing time at the ICA, the first time either of us had visited that museum. I’m not sure it was really my kind of art but I’m glad we gave it a try.

As if the day couldn’t get any better we walked the few short blocks to Drink, my favorite cocktail bar, for a pre-dinner libation. And dinner, holy cow, was at Menton. We dined from the 4 course menu but with all the wonderful offerings they seamlessly deliver to your table between courses it was more like 8 or 9 courses. After 3 hours of fine dining we were stuffed and completely satisfied. I fell asleep on the ride back home and by the time we got there it was no longer my birthday, which is exactly when you should get home from a birthday celebration.

It was the best birthday yet.

Headlines

Magazine covers make all kinds of impossible claims. Walk off 20 pounds by tomorrow! Look ten years younger with one simple trick! Best brownie ever!

It seems they may have gotten that last one right. Bon Appetit proudly proclaimed they had the best brownie recipe ever inside its February issue. I like to judge these things for myself so I made a batch. They were right.

Mary Poppins

At the end of last year my mom surprised my grandma, sister, and oldest niece with an afternoon at the theatre to see Mary Poppins. Each enthusiastic review, from the youngest to the oldest, ended with you MUST go see it. It immediately became an item on the list of experiences.

But before I get into that, let’s start with how our evening started, dinner. We went to my favorite French bistro style restaurant, Gaslight, for their restaurant week menu. Overall, the meal was a solid B, a bit below previous experiences. The appetizers and French bread were great. My main was a bit of a misstep with the unfortunate appearance of some canned artichokes atop my perfectly cooked cod. The dudely’s main course, however, was phenomenal, out of this world. I had a hard time keeping my fork on my own side of the table. It was being magnetically drawn into his braised beef cheeks. But, oh, how sad was dessert? Sad! How can a French bistro make crepes that taste like rubber? Oh, Gaslight, thank goodness for your appetizers and beef cheeks. You saved yourself from a flunking grade because I hate losing favorite restaurants.

Onto the main feature: Mary Poppins. I cannot say enough good things about this show. From the acting to the music to the costumes to the sets, everything was amazing. I found myself leaning forward out of my seat, singing along with the music throughout the entire production. I guess that could have been annoying to my neighbors but everyone was doing the same thing! Mary Poppins is such a classic movie and the stage version managed to honor that while adding different bits to the story.

As Mary Poppins would have said, “Practically perfect in every way.” But Mary must have been modest. It was absolutely perfect in every way.

Number 8 on The Experiences List

I Heart Coconut

Exhibit A: Triple Coconut Pie

It wasn’t until my sister pointed it out to me that I realized just how much I love coconut. We were talking about some baking I had done recently and two out of the three things I mentioned prominently featured coconut. Hmm, I guess she’s right. Any recipe with coconut piques my interest.

Exhibit B: Classic Coconut Cake

So it didn't take long after I saw the Classic Coconut Cake recipe in this month’s Bon Appetit before it was sitting in my pretty cake stand. I’ve been slowly working my way through this awesome cake. However, if the dudely has anything to do with it the cake will be gone by tonight. If the slice of cake doesn’t serve at least three people it just isn’t big enough for him. I guess my love for coconut is more like infatuation while his is a true love.

Makin' Whoopie

No, not that kind! The pie kind. Think coffee laced chocolate cookie cakes spread with buttercream and we’ll be thinking the same thing. Of course, they could accurately be described as sugar, some more sugar, fat, and more fat, but that just doesn’t have the same ring to it.

In this cute little four bite size I made them in for the masses you can ignore the fact that they are sugar and fat bound together with chocolate and flour. And because it’s Valentine’s Day I think ignorance is bliss, enjoyed with a hot cup of tea or coffee.
Recipe from Baked Explorations, a must have for all you bakers out there.

The Food

1. Eat a dozen oysters with a glass of champagne
2. Start a Sunday Supper Club
3. Take a cooking class (done!)
4. Have dinner at Menton (done!)
5. Pick raspberries or blueberries or both
6. Eat at The Butcher Shop
7. Check out Flour
8. Assemble the liquors for the perfect classic cocktail bar
9. Give Coppa Enoteca another try (done!)
10. Make ricotta
11. Make mozzarella
12. Make cassoulet
13. Make mayonnaise
14. Make bagels
15. Make chocolate babka from The Craft of Baking
16. Make crepes
17. Make croissants
18. Make Chocolate Coffee Cake with Dark Chocolate Ganache from Baked Explorations
19. Make doughnuts
20. Make whoopie pies (done!)

Part of the 2011 in Lists Project

Grasmere Apple Cake

When Grandma was visiting a few weeks ago, she reminded me about her favorite cake recipe. She's been making it as long as I've been around. It originally was published in our home town newsletter and then reprinted as my contribution to Mrs. Ferraro's third grade class' Mother's Day cookbook circa 1979. Oh, the things I have to look forward to when the girls are in school, like receiving my own recipes in a kid-decorated leaflet as a gift.

We had just gone apple picking and had 25-ish pounds of fresh McIntosh, Cortlands, Empires, Galas and Honeycrisps sitting on the kitchen counter. Mom got right to work cutting the apples and removing the cores in preparation for grating them into the cake. We used Empires, McIntosh and Cortland but you can use your favorites. When I made the cake again a few weeks ago, I was lazy and didn't cut and core the apples first. It was actually easier to hang onto them when they are whole and you end up with a tidy little core at the end. Sorry about that, Mom!

I gathered the rest of the ingredients and started putting the dough together. As always, I used the recipe as written but substituted my favorite gluten-free flour.

It is delicious when still warm, and (according to my husband) even better when chilled. I left off the glaze because I didn't have any lemons and didn't miss it, though it is apparently my mother's favorite part. It's a crumb cake and the gluten-free version is excellent even after several days in the refrigerator.

Grasmere Apple Cake

4 c. flour (I substituted the Gluten-Free Pantry All Purpose Flour)

1/2 tsp. salt

1 tsp. baking powder

1/2 c. sugar

3/4 lb. butter

2 eggs, beaten

6-9 apples, washed

3/4 c. sugar

1/2 tsp. ground cardamom

1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon

Mix dry ingredients and cut in butter until mealy texture achieved. Add beaten eggs and blend with your fingertips. Divide dough in half, pat into bottom of a 9x13 inch pan (I lined mine with parchment paper). Grate apples over bottom layer. Spring with the sugar and spice mixture and pat remaining dough on top. Bake 325 degrees Farenheit for ~55 minutes, or until golden brown.

Cool, then glaze if desired with the following:

1 c. icing sugar

juice of 1/2 lemon

Recipe of the Week

Recipe: Apple Cider Doughnuts
Source: Food Network Magazine

Ingredients: *****
The stars of this recipe were our freshly picked apples and the locally pressed apple cider. With such fresh, delicious ingredients it’s really hard to go wrong…even with a doughnut.

Preparation: ***
Doughnut making is not for the weak of heart. It requires time to make the applesauce that goes into the dough. Then there is the chilling time, rolling, and cutting. All that is doable. What comes next though can be a little scary: the deep-frying. I went with a relatively narrow saucepan, about 7”-8” across, with tall sides to keep everything well contained. You also need a good thermometer and patience to get the oil heated to the proper temperature. Don’t try to speed this up. My final word of advice in prepping these: don’t crowd the pan. Two to three at a time worked perfectly with my pan size and meant the temperature stayed pretty steady.

Taste: *****
These doughnuts were delicious. They were everything I’d dreamed about and I’d dreamed quite a bit in the week since we went apple picking. Usually I just go for instant gratification and get half a dozen doughnuts at the orchard. However, the orchard we went to this year did not have a single doughnut. Shocking, right? I’m glad they didn’t though. It gave me just the push I needed to try these. And in the end they were better than anything I could have purchased. They were just the right combination of cinnamon, nutmeg, sugar, and apple. The best part may be what they didn’t have - that heavy in your stomach feeling. So go ahead and sit down with two doughnuts next to your steaming mug of cider. You’ll be happy you did.

Shop SoWa & Brunch at Gaslight

Many, many Sundays ago I found myself as a lonely only. The dudely was away and friends were vacationing or otherwise engaged. I was bored and in need of some entertainment.

I found lots to entertain me at SoWa, Boston’s handmade, antique, and farmer’s markets held outdoors every Sunday spring through fall. The handmade market was fun, especially in the creative way all those talented folks displayed their goodies.

The antiques market was a really nice surprise. Whenever I see the word antiques I start thinking pricey collectibles. What I found, though, was more like a great flea market. My favorite was the tables of vintage jewelry to sort through. I ended up bringing home a fantastic red bead necklace. The woman even gave me an unsolicited $1 off the marked price. Nice, huh?

And isn’t it convenient that just next door is Gaslight? Well, I had to have brunch. I ordered what has become my go-to dish, moules frites. I cannot get enough of this dish. I did shake it up a little though and ordered myself a cocktail to accompany it, the matin martini. It was a delicious end to a morning of shopping.

Recipe of the Week

Recipe: Pork Chops with Bacon and Cabbage
Source: Everyday Food

Ingredients: *****
Just seven simple ingredients make up this one pot dish. Importantly one of those ingredients is pork chops, something I've been accused of not serving enough of around here.

Preparation: ****
The reason I love one pot dishes is the little bit of hands-on time early in the recipe followed by the walking away time as the dish finishes up. This isn't that kind of one pot dish. Basically you're doing something every few minutes over an hour which means you can't wander far...or get anything else done.

Taste: ****
The dudely is arguing that I should be giving this recipe 5 stars but I just don't buy it. It certainly tasted good but I'm not imagining the next time I can make it, the sure sign of a 5 star recipe. That didn't stop him from shoveling down two big platefuls with hardly a peep. Perhaps I need a his and her ratings scale.